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The
gateway communities surrounding Yellowstone National Park are almost
as unique as the park itself. That is saying a lot considering
the one-of-a-kind wonders of Yellowstone. What makes the communities
so unique is the atmosphere and culture of each town. There
are two directories on this page; you can check out the businesses of
each town by clicking the menu on the left or use the links below and
read a description about each town written by J Zumbo.
Big Sky
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Big Sky began as the development
dream of NBC newscaster Chet Huntley in 1973. Initially known for
winter skiing. Big Sky has much more, offering year-round sports
and attractions. It is Montana's largest destination resort. It
may remind you of Jackson, Wyoming: the lifestyle is much the same.
To get there, go 9 miles west from U.S. 191 at the Big Sky turnoff;
the road is paved, of course.
The Big Sky Ski and Summer Resort
area is divided into Mountain Village and Meadow Village. Each
is an adult playground. There are regular shuttles between the
villages and the ski area and daily shuttles to Yellowstone National
Park
The highway runs through forests
of lodgepole pine, fir and spruce, eventually crossing back Into
Yellowstone National Park (no gate, no fee required) and then
back out, following the Gallatin River most of the way north toward
Bozeman. Initially the highway is in a narrow valley, with the
Madison Range, including the Spanish Peaks, on the west, and the
Impressive Gallatin Range on the east.
In 1805, the Gallatin River was named by Lewis and Clark in honor
of Albert Gallatin, Secretary of the Treasury. Then in 1865, Gallatin
County became one of Montana's original counties created by the
First Territorial Legislature of 1865. The original boundaries
have been altered with land absorbed into Yellowstone National
Park, but the county still retains the contour of the Gallatin
River. The world's largest forest of fossilized trees is located
along the divide between the Gallatin and Yellowstone Rivers.
Rockhounds search out valuable specimens of petrified and opalized
wood, agates, jasper and various crystals. A permit from the Gallatin
National Forest Ranger Station in Bozeman is required.
Summer or winter,
ride the Lone Peak Tram at Big Sky Resort; summer operation is
June I through September 30. The incredible view at the summit
of Lone Mountain, 11,150 feet, is truly inspiring. The ride up
to the highest vertical ski drop in the United States is worth
the fee of $20. Summertime
activities include golfing, swimming, horseback riding and white-water
rafting.
The Big Sky Golf Course was designed
by Arnold Palmer. The 18-hole public course at Meadow Village
is 2 miles west of U.S. 191 in Big Sky.
Big Sky Resort Ski Area has 3,500
skiable acres with a vertical rise of 4,180 feet. It is one of
the top ten largest ski resorts in the nation. The tram, quads,
gondolas, chairlifts and surface tows take skiers where they need
to be, faster. The average annual snowfall is an astounding 400
inches. Plus, there are more than 45 miles of groomed ski trails.
Its excellent reputation is well deserved.
Snowmobilers will thrill at the
120-mile Big Sky Trail between Bozeman and West Yellowstone. Maps
and information are available at the Bozeman Ranger District Gallatin
National Forest
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Cody
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The
town of Cody was named after the great western showman, Buffalo
Bill Cody. Known for his Wild West shows, Buffalo Bill had a most
remarkable life. His many careers included Army scout. Pony Express
rider, guide. Native fighter, and of course, buffalo hunter. Buffalo
Bill's exploits influenced the entire nation's, and Europe's, view
of the "Wild West." Above all, Cody was a great showman.
His many escapades, somewhat embellished, were made famous by the
articles and novels of New Yorker Ned Buntline. By the 1890s, his
Wild West Shows were at a peak, renowned on two continents, and
earning Buffalo Bill more than a million dollars per year.
Buffalo Bill guided expeditions
through the Bighorn Basin and along the Shoshone River during
the 1870s. He was greatly impressed with the possibilities of
the area, so much so that he returned 15 years later and joined
a development group. In 1895, George T. Beck of Sheridan, banker
Horace Alger and Cody formed the Shoshone Land and Irrigation
Company. Beck and Alger saw the importance to the project of a
well-known name, especially to attract willing homesteaders. The
two decided to name their town Cody, and Buffalo Bill, who had
wanted the same, was rightly pleased.
The original townsite, called Richland,
was actually near DeMaris
Springs, a short distance west of town at the mouth of the canyon.
The mineral springs were the namesake of Colter's Hell, according
to modern historians. Others believed Colter's Hell was actually
Yellowstone National Park.
The Shoshone Land and Irrigation
Company was responsible for initiating the Buffalo Bill Dam project
that subsequently backed up a reservoir of the same name. The
company was unsuccessful, but the seeds for the irrigation project
were planted. Eventually the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation funded
Wyoming's first federal project and completed the dam in 1910.
Cody is given much credit for development and promotion of the
project. In fact, farmland he owned on the lrma Flat and near
Marquette ended up under water. The dam, initially named the Shoshone
Dam, was renamed the Buffalo Bill Dam, and the irrigation water
and electric power it provided were fundamental in securing the
community's future.
The beautiful scenery, abundance
of wildlife and proximity to Yellowstone National Park were key
elements that had once attracted Buffalo Bill. Today, these same
things attract visitors from around the world. The town of Cody
is a veteran when It comes to the tourist trade. It is the only
town to claim two entrances to Yellow-stone National Park, the
traditional 54 miles to the East Gate and also via the northeast
entrance, 81 miles away. Both routes offer drives through incredibly
beautiful country. The East Gate is reached through the North
Fork Highway along the Shoshone River that was recently designated
the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. The northeast entrance, via
the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, offers panoramic views from on
top of the world.
Today, Cody still maintains a western
lifestyle despite the influx of new residents and developments.
Its 8,000 permanent citizens are often addressed by strangers
who say, "You're from Cody? What a beautiful place!"
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Cooke City
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Silver
Gate and Cooke City are the first towns you'll pass as you exit
Yellowstone's Northeast Gate. Ahead of you the highway divides,
and you must choose between two incredibly beautiful and scenic
highways. The magnificent Chief Joseph Scenic Byway on Wyoming 296
heads through the Sunlight Basin to Cody, Wyoming. The northern
route puts you on the Beartooth Scenic Byway. Filled with breathtaking
vistas high above timberline, the highway crosses the Beartooth
Plateau and descends into Red Lodge, Montana, on U.S. 212. From
there you can go northeast to 1-90 and Billings, or you can head
west following the rural roads through the Absaroka Mountains and
come out at Columbus on 1-90.
Cooke City, named for Jay Cooke,
Jr., began as a mining town in the 1870s. The son of a Northern
Pacific financier, Cooke was primarily interested in the mining
claims. The prospectors found gold, silver and lead, and the mines
flourished for a time, but they were just too far back in the
wilderness for the ore quality to pay off. The ore still remains
untouched. A recent effort by a Canadian firm, Noranda, to open
the Crown Butte Mine was unsuccessful after a furious battle.
President Clinton finally stepped in and gave Noranda $65 million
to settle its claim and keep the area pristine.
The early settlement earned its
keep by being a trade center for goods shipped up the Yellowstone
River through Red Lodge and then transported down to Cody, Wyoming.
When the Beartooth Highway from Red Lodge opened in 1936, Cooke
City suddenly became a tourist attraction. Today, the year-round
population is only about 100 folks, but many more call it home
In the summer. It's a quaint, rustic town that makes for an enjoyable
quick stop to walk along the main street. The introduction of
wolves into Yellow-stone has created a mini-boom for Cooke City
as wolf observers use the town as a base from which to dine and
lodge.
The tiny town of Silver Gate is just four miles from Cooke City. It
was established in 1937, named for Silver Mountain in the rugged
Beartooth Range. If you're a trivia buff, here's a tidbit for
you: It's Impossible to get to either of these Montana towns without
going through Wyoming- unless you can drop in via a parachute
or hang glider.
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Gardiner
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Gardiner,
the original entrance to Yellowstone, is the only year-round drive-in
entrance to the park. Despite winter snows, plows keep the roads
open, and the town is busy every season. Throughout, Gardiner has
somehow retained its own character. The western-type show put on
by Jackson, West Yellowstone, and even Livingston, has not been
adopted in Gardiner. Tourism is mighty important, but this gateway
town also caters to snowmobilers, cross-country skiers, and late-season
elk hunters. Blaze orange Is still an accepted winter color by most
locals.
Controversy has become a common
element in the lives of Gar-diner's 600 residents. The Church
Universal and Triumphant, known locally as CUT, purchased some
25,000 acres near Gardiner. The massive presence of the church
made locals wary, and when the group began drilling geothermal
wells, it was too much. Even environmentalists jumped in, demanding
studies to determine the impact on area geysers. Subsequently,
the well was capped. Studies by the USGS and the National Park
Service were dissimilar, and the situation remains unresolved.
Church members have since worked hard at good relations
Another hurdle for Gardiner residents
is the ongoing controversy over Yellowstone National Park's migrating
buffalo. Overpopulated herds seeking new winter feeding grounds
migrate out of the park. The problem is brucellosis, a bacterial
infection that can be carried by buffalo and potentially transmitted
to cattle. Whether danger of the disease to cattle is only perceived
or real, the problem it has created is absolute. Traditionally,
the bison were harvested and the meat was donated to the Crow
tribe. In 1997, several hundred buffalo were killed by Montana
government hunters, drawing national attention to the situation.
The future solution, best left to biologists skilled in game management,
may end up in the wrong hands. Led by a public seeking the cessation
of this killing, politicians seeking votes may determine the outcome.
Conflict has never been a stranger
in these parts. Gardiner's first settlers battled the Crow, who
fought to keep their ancient hunting grounds. The settlement was
named for mountain man and fur trapper Johnston Gardiner. He hunted
along the Yellowstone River and its tributaries in the 1830s.
The Northern Pacific Railroad made
it to Cinnabar, a few miles to the north, in 1883, but disputes
over the townsite's location caused a 20-year delay. James McCartney,
who was in charge of the town, argued almost endlessly with Robert
"Buckskin Jim" Cutler, who claimed ownership of the
gold diggings. The NP branch line, bringing trainloads of park
visitors, didn't reach Gardiner until 1903. That was a year of
celebrations. In April, President Theodore Roosevelt arrived to
dedicate the Roosevelt Arch before a bustling, cheering crowd
of 5,000 spectators. The grand arch of basaltic rock still welcomes
visitors today. The inscription, "For the Benefit and Enjoyment
of the People" confirms the purpose of Yellowstone, the nation's
first national park.
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Jackson
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Ah,
Jackson, Wyoming-the town some people love to hate. Depending on
your perspective, you'll get along nicely in Jackson, enjoying its
exquisite shops and ski-town atmosphere, or you'll be glad to drive
past it and get on down the road. Jackson is so unlike the rest
of the state that some Wyomingites would prefer that it quietly
go away. Others are proud of its existence, and visit it every chance
they get. Let's describe it this way. If you're interested in a
cowpoke town where life is slow and easy, and most locals have real
horse manure on their boot soles, don't look for it in Jackson (though
there are indeed nearby working ranches and authentic cowboys).
But if you want superb dining, world-class art galleries, exciting
nightlife and the chance to bump into longtime resident Harrison
Ford or other famous celebrities, then hang out in Jackson. Be aware
that the streets are very narrow, the crowds are very large and
RV parking is extremely limited. Basically, one area is reserved
for RV parking, the Home Ranch Town Parking Lot. Located one block
south of the town square, it's paved, free and has a restroom. There's
no overnight parking. If this is full, there's an overflow area
a block east of the town square on Deloney Street. You can also
park around the Lutheran Church and the elementary school.
Historians claim that Jackson originally
went by the name of Marysvale for the first postmistress, Mary
White. But in 1897, the wife of a local banker, Grace Miller,
bought some land and planned the actual town site. The town of
Jackson was then named for the fur trader David Jackson. Later,
keeping true to form with Wyoming's position as the "Equality
State," Jackson was governed by women. The 1920 town council
and members were all women, as was the town marshal, and Grace
Miller was the mayor. The gals remained in office until 1923,
performing their duties admirably.
The Jackson area originated as
a ranching community, and plenty of cattle ranches remain. However,
it's a touch more difficult to notice them among the elaborate
homes of wealthy families, ski resorts and condominiums. Jackson
has bent to the constant pressure of tourism and all its trappings,
even though it's well disguised by the western motif and rustic
wood required by zoning laws. Without question, the area offers
more art, fine dining, nightlife and culture than the rest of
Wyoming. Activities include climbing, hiking, ballooning, gliding,
biking, skiing, rafting, kayaking, horseback riding, hunting and
fishing. Of course, Jackson is a full-service resort community.
At the south end of Jackson, you
can drive south to Hoback Junction. Or, you may turn west and
head over Teton Pass Into Idaho, going through Wilson and making
a stop at Teton Village, site of a popular ski area.
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West Yellowstone
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The
West Gate is right at the edge of West Yellowstone, Montana, whose
claim to fame just might be its notoriety as one of the coldest
spots in the lower 48 states. Locals know It simply as "West,"
and are brave souls who are fond of deep snow and extreme cold temperatures.
The town is best known for its snowmobile friendly access and activities
and always seems to draw plenty of tourists, no matter what the
season. It's no surprise that West Yellowstone has been called the
"Snowmobile Capital of the World." Between the Big Sky
Ski Area just up the highway and the snowmobile market, the place
jumps all winter. Of course, its close proximity to the park creates
plenty of summer business. Spring fishing and fall hunting bring
in even more travelers.
West Yellowstone became an official
entrance in 1907 when the Oregon Short Line completed the branch
railway to the community. Union Pacific began operating a passenger
train from Ashton, Idaho, in 1909. By 1915, cars were streaming
down the highway from Bozeman, bringing eager tourists. The town
grew up as a gateway to the park and today is Yellowstone National
Park's busiest entry. It was incorporated in 1966.
Blue-ribbon trout streams galore-the
Yellowstone, Madison, Gibbon, Firehole and Henry's Fork Rivers-and
many outstanding lakes, make this premier fishing country. West
Yellowstone has the folks who know how.
Biking has become the new summertime
pastime. The many trails and paved roads in West Yellowstone country
provide scenic beauty and enjoyment of this relatively new sport.
It's a lot easier to hang a mountain bike instead of a 4-wheel
drive on the back of an RV.
The wintertime recreation is snowmobiling,
and it's big-time here. There are over 1,000 miles of groomed
trails in the area surrounding West Yellowstone. The snowmobile
season in Yellowstone National Park runs from mid-December to
March. Outside the park in the National Forests, the season is
longer, and trails are both groomed and ungroomed. Instruction
and guides are available. |
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